Costumes from a period film set in 1911 China shows how the movement of fabric can change everything
I recently watched a Taiwanese film called Three Times at Metrograph. It starred Shu Qi and Chang Chen and depicted three separate love stories set in different periods - 1911, 1966 and 2005. It was an insightful and thought-provoking look into how relationships have and have not changed over a century. Or something like that. To be honest, I was distracted by the fabric of Chang Chen’s clothing and how I could design a room with them.
No surprise there.
Pay attention to how the black silk moves. It billows fluidly rather than creases.
Look at the linen of his pants. It has a utilitarian way of folding - almost rural, but softer.
The combination of these two fabrics, one extremely luxurious and the other humble, produces an incredibly understated and sophisticated style. The details matter though. If the black silk was thin, it would feel too delicate and out of place with the linen. If the linen was like that of a boating pant or beach wear, it wouldn’t evoke humility. Imagine it - silk top and linen pants? Throw on a pair of Chanel sunglasses and it sounds more like Springtime in the Upper East Side than 1911 China. It’s all in the details.
For silk, consider a 12mm gauge Habotai lined with a thick underlayment such as cashmere or horsehair for its rebounding properties.
We have also successfully used this gorgeous silk weave from Armani Casa. It’s different in hand and sheen but ends up creating the same old world luxurious feel.
For linen, we love using Japanese weaves such as this Kobayashi Double-Gauze from Miss Matatabi.
But remember, the true beauty of these fabrics comes from their movement with and against each other. Think carefully how you want to use them. For instance, if the silk were pulled tight over a dining chair it wouldn’t be able to move and would have a very different effect. Instead, consider drapes, duvet cover over bed linens, throw blankets, or skirted upholstery and be generous with the pooling.
While you’re at it, notice how beautifully the saddle brown leather bag in the first video complements these elements. This is shaping up to be an amazing room palette…
-MM